The GuardinGnomes Alliance
'This information is intended not just for our alliance and its affiliates, but anyone who wishes to improve their knowledge of the game. And of course, any additions or comments are more than welcome! This page is a far cry from everything there is to know.'
Code of Conduct
Wilds & Barb Camps
Code of Conduct
Do not attack other players or their wilds without provocation, whether they are members of a friendly alliance or not. This alliance is about Integrity as well as growth. Picking fights or brutalizing low might players is not what this alliance is about.
Before attacking a wild, click on it to make sure that it is unowned. If you do accidentally take another player’s wild, recall your troops but do not immediately abandon it. Send them a message apologizing for the mistake and let them know that they are welcome to take it back. If you abandon it first, they will lose many more troops reclaiming it than they would if they just take it from you. The other bonus is that if they don’t bother taking it back, you get to keep it.
Please report incidents of this nature to alliance leaders in a message and/or in alliance chat if we are online so we can be prepared for potential hard feelings, and so we don’t get the impression that you did it intentionally.
If intentional and unsolicited attacks continue, you will be removed from the alliance. If your actions continue to wreak havoc on the well-being of our alliance or its affiliates, you may then become our Target and friendly alliances will be warned against admitting you to their ranks.
Help out your fellow alliance members.
Ask for help if you need it! This goes for safety as well as resources.
Report any attacks or impending attacks against you to leadership right away, as well as announcing it in alliance chat. However, DO NOT immediately retaliate. Let alliance leadership contact the offender first, giving them and the alliance they belong to a warning. If they apologize and back off, that is the end of it. If they do not and continue attacks, THEN we clobber them. But wait for the go ahead from leadership. As fun as wars can be, prevention is the first approach.
If you are low on resources, simply announce it in alliance chat. Alliance members will help you out as they are able, but we can’t do anything for you if we don’t know your needs.
If you have extra resources you aren’t using, send them to players who Can use them.
Reinforce other members that are under attack and/or aid in attacks against “the enemy,” if you have the means (as well as the OK from leadership).
Be nice (or be kicked).
Build Might! This is the whole point of playing. Those who are not active players will be removed from the alliance. This does not mean that you have to play all day every day, but if your might isn’t going anywhere then we need to make room for players that will participate.
Defensive Tips (How Not To Be Used)
Storage: Each level holds another 100k of each resource (e.g., lvl1 Storehouse will hold 100k of each resource; lvl6 Storehouse will hold 600k of each). Researching Shrinking Powder will increase this capacity as well. So if you don't want to lose resources to marauders, make sure your Storehouse is leveled up above what you produce. Either use up excess, gift it to an alliance member or reinforce one of your wilds with it while you're away (just because you're not logged in doesn't mean players who Are logged in can't take you for all you're worth). If you send your resources to a wild, it doesn’t hurt to send along more than just Supply Troops to protect it just in case someone bothers to scout it. And definitely build Traps on the wild, Mercenaries if you can afford them.
Gold: Gold is not held in your Storehouse, so whatever you have can be taken. Your best bet is to just not produce a whole lot. Set your taxes at 10-20%. If you need more, level up your Cottages (more people=more taxes... just don't forget to build up your Farms as well, as more people also eat more food!). You can also borrow Happiness to get more gold by clicking on "Increase Gold" in the Castle. This can be done every 15 min. but reduces Happiness by 20, so be careful that it doesn't get below 50. However, you get quite a bit of gold by doing this even once. And if you want to increase Happiness in your cities further, build up your Tavern and take advantage of posted Fairs on Facebook. You can also send extra gold to one of your wilds or share it with friends, just like with the other resources.
Wilds: These become crucial to your production, especially the grasslands and lakes as you build troops, and therefore a classic attack strategy is to take a player's wilds - this can starve your city and prevent you from producing more troops (or anything else). It's a good idea to keep your own wilds far from your cities. You get just as much production from them but an enemy will be hard pressed to find them if they aren't next door. (The game will not allow you to own wilds from another province unless you take them from another player, but a single province gives you plenty of space to spread them out). This is especially important for a wild(s) you are using to house resources when you’re away/under attack – you do not want to have it close by or it will be as vulnerable as your cities!
Troops: Leave them in Sanctuary unless you know what you’re expecting from an attack And have the troops to overpower it. If you leave them defending your city then not only can you lose unprotected resources in an attack, you may very well lose all your troops as well. If they are in Sanctuary they will not fight if your city is attacked but also cannot be touched by the offender. And if you have taken care of your resources as covered above, there is nothing to defend anyway. Your city itself cannot be damaged, only stolen from (including interrupting market transactions if you have any pending).
Scouts: If you don’t want your enemy to find out what you’ve got in your city while still leaving your troops in Sanctuary, you can “cross-scout.” This means that you send large quantities of scouts (at least 200 but you might as well use as many as you’ve got) from one city to reinforce the other. This way if the enemy really wants to know what you’ve got, they are going to have to send a lot more… and lose a lot more… scouts to do it. You will of course lose some scouts to theirs, but generally an attacker is only going to send 1 or a handful initially so you won’t lose much and they’ll come out of it empty-handed.
Wall: Get this up to lvl4 ASAP, then you can start building Traps. These are the cheapest wall defense if not the most elaborate, but they can definitely deter an attack if the person scouts first and will at least guarantee damage to the defender if they attack anyway – so the more the better! Crossbows are the next thing to start building. These enable a greater range of damage and, although vulnerable to siege weapons, are brutal to infantry units. Archers can take them out as well but at a huge ratio of loss, so still well worth it. The other wall defenses all have their own merits, but you can do well with these two alone. If you are very concerned about siege weapons, throw in some Trebuchets – these target only those units.
Watch Tower: Get this leveled up as you can. The higher the level, the more info it will give you. Get it at least to a lvl3 or 4 as soon as you can. Lvl3 tells you the time of an impending attack, lvl4 tells you Who is attacking. This will at least give you something to prepare for. Lvl5 provides info about the numbers of troops and up from there it just gets more specific about types of troops, skill levels etc. All nice info to have but not essential if you just want to play dead.
Games to Play when Under Attack: Besides just making sure that you have nothing worth plundering, there are some very frustrating tricks you can play with an attacker once you have enough troops to work with (and assuming you are online when it happens). Once you have been scouted with your troops safely away in Sanctuary, wait for notice of an impending attack and set them all to Defend the City. This really ticks off an attacker that thinks he/she has got it easy! Another thing you can do if actively at war with someone is move your troops out to a nearby wild, another one of your own cities or an ally’s city. When scouted the potential attacker will see no troops (or better yet, leave a handful in Sanctuary and he/she will just think you don’t have much). Then when news of the attack comes, send them back to Defend the City. You can also get alliance members to help you reinforce your city. So even if you are a low might player and/or without many troops you can house an ally’s troops in your embassy and bring them out to defend after you’ve been scouted. Or simply invite an alliance member to send reinforcements after a scouting, if they’re not too far away. A lot of this isn’t practical unless it’s an ongoing war and you are expecting scouts/attacks to occur. And certainly don’t try it if you don’t have the troops to overpower the attacker! That is just suicide. You’ll want to have at least a lvl6 or 7 Watch Tower before you start playing these sorts of games so you’ll know what you’re up against.
Wilds & Barb Camps
(wild lvl/1st wave/2nd wave; mm=militia)
1/50 archers or 500mm (only 1 wave) 2/5mm/100 archers 3/10mm/260 archers 4/20mm/600 archers - fletching 5+ 5/50mm/1500 archers - fletching 6+ 6/100mm/3500 archers - fletching 7+ 7/150mm/7500 archers - fletching 8+
+ send 1mm in every 2nd wave to keep pace the same, and send the waves as close together as possible or you will lose a few archers as the traps reset... the first wave is the sacrifice, they take out the traps
Look at info on the Wikia website for lvls 8-10, lots of options for taking those (http://koc.wikia.com/wiki/Wilds).
In addition to the chart at Wikia, another option for taking lvl10 wilds with lvl9 fletching is to send 1200mm 1st wave, 80k archers (+ 1mm) 2nd wave. You will lose 2.5k archers in the 2nd wave but they are much easier to replace than ballista and catapults.
(lvl/troops) - only one wave on all of these (barb camps don’t have traps)
1/300 archers 2/900 archers 3/2700 archers - fletching 6+ 4/8100 archers - fletching 7+ 6/500 archers - fletching 8+ 5/15000 archers - fletching 8+ 6/33000 archers - fletching 8 OR 22000 archers – fletching 9 7/46000 archers - fletching 9+
You Can get by with fewer numbers in the 2nd waves (or only wave in attacking barbs) without losing any, but if you cut it down too far you will lose more than a few. The 1st wave however is a guaranteed loss (in attacking wilds) because that is simply how many traps are set to defend each lvl wild, and there’s no way around it besides sacrifice.
Heavy Cav. 750
Heavy Cav. 80
Heavy Cav. 700
Heavy Cav. 87
Ok so that was a whole lot of numbers (Troop Stats), putting them together is the tricky part and not an exact science (or at least not a fully researched one yet). Here’s what you can keep in mind:
Fletching is vital. In an otherwise even match, whoever has the higher level of Fletching will win. Period. The person with the higher Fletching might also win if outnumbered, depending on circumstances. Get your Fletching to at least lvl6 ASAP if you want to make any dents at all in taking on wilds and barbs.
Militia make good sacrifices because they’re cheap. They are the ones you want to send in an initial wave against wilds and wall defenses such as Traps and Caltrops. They are also one of the slowest, so you will want to send them in a separate wave from the rest of your troops or the others will get there first and take out Traps etc before the pokey Militia even get there. (And send militia in subsequent waves as well so they do not overtake the first – a wave can only travel as fast as its slowest member).
Army size is a factor in deciding what to pit against an opponent. For instance, Archers have a greater attack range than Cavalry, but Cavalry is both faster and has greater attack strength. In a small battle (say, a few k), the Cavalry will have the advantage because there aren’t enough Archers taking shots to compensate for the damage Cavalry will do once it gets close enough. In a larger battle (maybe 10k+), Archers will have the advantage because they can take out many more of the Cavalry before they are able to get within range, so there will be far less of them to take on the Archers by the time they get together. This is just a taste of how complicated it can get.
Don’t forget about the Wall itself. The troops you send against another city will spend time attacking the durability of the Wall itself, beyond taking out its defenses and battling with any troops set to defend. This leaves a certain number of turns (depending on strength of the Wall) in which your troops will be engaged in something other than combat, while the defending troops do not have that extra barrier. Their turn will be entirely occupied with beating up your guys.
Other factors that come into play are things like Knight experience and items used such as Blood Lust. Not to mention other research beyond Fletching (Poisoned Edge, Metal Alloys). But to actually calculate all of these considerations into combat is simply not worth it (and probably not possible for mere mortals).
As far as siege weapons go, I only included Ballista here because they are the ones you are most likely to encounter. The others are very expensive and, quite frankly, if your opponent is able to send a significant number of these at you you’re probably screwed anyway. But you can definitely look these up on Wikia: http://koc.wikia.com/wiki/Troops .
One thing siege weapons are good for, including the Ballista, is taking out Crossbows. They are also singularly vulnerable to Spiked Barriers and Trebuchets.
Wall Defenses: These are covered very well on Wikia, http://koc.wikia.com/wiki/Defensive_Unit . This will give you a good sense of which troops are vulnerable to which defenses and vice versa.